1967 - 1969 Camaro Parts - Camaros through the years: coolest - Steve's Camaro Parts - 650-873-1890

Camaros through the years: coolest

By Kirk Bell of MSN Autos

The Chevrolet Camaro isn't just another performance car; it's an integral part of American culture. Sean Penn's character Jeff Spicoli drove a Camaro in "Fast Times at Ridgemont High," Megan Fox captivated a generation of adolescent boys leaning over one in "Transformers," and John Cusack eventually got his running in "Better Off Dead." Over the past 46 years, the Camaro has been an astoundingly fast and beautiful V8-powered muscle car as well as a painfully slow 4-cylinder cruiser with some questionable styling. Click through for a look at the most significant Camaros of all time. Did your favorite make the list?

1967 Camaro

The Chevrolet Camaro made its debut in September 1966 as a 4-seat coupe or convertible. It was widely viewed as a reaction to the immensely popular FordMustang of 1964, but Chevrolet had been toying with the idea of the Camaro since 1962. As it developed a cult following alongside the Mustang, the Camaro helped spawn the pony car segment, as it possessed the pony car's key trait of a large engine stuffed into a small package. The most powerful standard Camaro was the 325-horsepower SS396, but a limited number of special-order SS396 models cranked out 375 horsepower.

1967 Camaro Z/28

Although it wasn't the most powerful Camaro in that first year, the Z/28 was the best-handling choice. Developed to qualify the Camaro for the Sports Car Club of America's new Trans-Am class, the Z/28 featured a 302-cubic-inch V8 engine that spun out 290 horsepower. The firmer F41 suspension improved handling, and exterior changes included dual hood and trunk stripes and Rally wheels on red-stripe tires. Only 602 Z/28s were built that first year, making it a desirable collector car today.

1969 Yenko/SC Camaro

Through Chevrolet's Central Office Production Order (COPO) program, Don Yenko ordered specially outfitted Camaros and sold them through his Pennsylvania dealership as the Yenko/SC ("Super Camaro"). The cars featured Chevrolet's L72 iron-block 427-cubic-inch V8 engine, which officially made 425 horsepower, although Yenko claimed 450. They also had disc brakes, positraction, a cowl-induction hood and heavy-duty suspension. A total of 201 1969 Yenko Camaros were sold.

1969 ZL1 Camaro

The most powerful and rarest Camaro of the 1960s was the legendary ZL1, which was essentially a race-ready factory dragster for the National Hot Rod Association Super Stock class and was available only through the COPO program. The heart of the ZL1 was an aluminum-block 427-cubic-inch V8 racing engine that officially produced 430 horsepower, although actual output was likely more than 500 horses. Only 69 of these monstrously powerful Camaros were built, making the ZL1 one of the most valuable Camaros today.

1970 1/2 Camaro

The second-generation Camaro made its debut in February 1970, offered only as a coupe. Styling showed cues from Jaguar and Ferrari. The new car was longer, lower and wider than the outgoing model, and that gave it more interior space. It handled better and rode softer, too. All the improvements inspired Road & Track magazine to call it the best American car of the time. The Z/28 received the 360-horsepower LT1 350-cubic-inch V8 engine from the Corvette. Car and Driver staffers piloted a Z/28 to a zero-to-60-mph time of just 5.8 seconds.

Baldwn Motion 1970 1/2 Camaro

Starting in 1967, two Long Island businesses collaborated to create some of the fastest Corvettes, Novas, Chevelles and Camaros of all time. Motion Performance modified the cars, and the Chevrolet dealer Baldwin Auto Co. sold them and offered financing. The cars were built to order and outfitted with 427-, 454- and even 482-cubic-inch engines, and could develop more than 500 horsepower. SS and more powerful Phase III models were offered, and Motion Performance guaranteed the Phase III cars could turn in quarter-mile times of at least 11.5 seconds at 120 mph.

source: http://editorial.autos.msn.com/camaros-through-the-years-15-coolest#16

YOU ARE NOT JUST BUYING PARTS – YOU ARE GETTING OUR CAMARO EXPERTISE

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar 

http://www.stevescamaroparts.com

1967 - 1969 Camaro Parts - 1967 Instrument Panel Harness - Steve's Camaro Parts - 650-873-1890

The instrument panel harness has a new provision in the light switch wiring to facilitate the new safety standard that parking lamps will be 'On" whenever headlamps are on.  It also incorporates polarized or indexed connector cavities in the fuse panel to prevent improper instalation of connectors in the panel.  One basic fuse panel is common to all passenger cars. It has nine fused cavities and four connector cavities for increased capacity (Fig. 12-25).

Fusing has been rearranged to more evenly distribute the electrical loads.  The passenger car cluster is now fused separately and tailights are fused on a different fuse than the stop lamps and hazard switch.  This allows the rear lamps to function even if one of the real lamp fuses is blown.

The tabulation below summarizes the basic cicuitry.

The follwoing 1968 Accessory or RPO items obtain their power source by plugging into polarized receptacles in the face of the fuse panel:

The engine and generator & forward lamp harness are more positively engaged to the instrument panel harness (back of fuse panel) through the mating of the engine and generator & forward lamp connectors and an attachment bolt (se Fig. 12-25).

The circuit breaker amperage has been lowered from 40 amps (1967) to 30 amps (1967).  This will give added protection to power window, power top, and/or power seat motors and wiring.

Source: Chevrolet Service News Volume 39 September - October 1967  Number 9

YOU ARE NOT JUST BUYING PARTS – YOU ARE GETTING OUR CAMARO EXPERTISE

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar 

1967 - 1969 Camaro Parts - How to swap 3rd Gen IROC Camaro Steering Box into 1st Gen Camaro - Steve's Camaro Parts - 650-873-1890

How to swap 3rd Gen IROC Camaro Steering Box into 1st Gen Camaro

This is the story of Pete's journey to having a 68 Camaro that does not steer like a school bus.

There are so many problems with the drivetrain and chassis of these old muscle cars, where does one even begin? I had heard about swapping in a faster box from a friend who did it on his 66 GTO 20 years ago so I thought I’d start with this. Pound-for-pound and dollar-for-dollar it’s probably the best change you can make to your old Camaro. And when you are done it’s virtually impossible to tell that the steering box has been changed. I’m of course talking about taking a late 80’s IROC Camaro steering box and swapping it into your first gen Camaro.

The IROC steering box is a direct swap in, with two changes that must be addressed. 1) The input shaft diameter is different but a compatible new GM steering coupler is available, and lets face it, this thing probably needs to be changed anyway. 2) The fittings for the high-pressure and return lines in the next box are metric instead of standard (Why the switch to Metric for GM? Maybe it’s because only 3 countries in the world do NOT use the metric system: Liberia, Myanmar, and the United States of America!...good company indeed, but I digress). More on these fixes below…

If you don’t have a junkyard nearby or won’t go to the junkyard this post is probably not for you. Leave this site and go to another and pay $500 for a new box. However, if you want to save some cash AND have an OE quality steering box, read on…

This swap was performed on a 68 Camaro Coupe with the following specs; your car may be different.

Base model V-8 327, 210hp 2-barrel with Powerglide trans

Power steering car (N40 option, factory installed)

Original GM power steering pump already installed in the factory location (or similar aftermarket replacement, as far as I can remember my steering pump is the same one since I bought the car in 1988)

Parts you will need / Services you will need performed:

Steering Box (Junk yard). In 1985 Chevy launched the IROC Camaro. These cars had “high effort” fast ratio steering boxes. These are the boxes you want. Not only is the box way faster than the old Camaro’s 17.5:1 steering box, but they also ran with less power assist, so the steering is faster AND heavier, which means you can feel the road more and be more connected to the car when driving. Anyone who’s ever driven a modern sports car knows the feeling. Of course installing the IROC steering box will in no way turn your Camaro into a sports car (nothing will) but it will make it more enjoyable to drive.

The best way to make sure you have the right box is to go to the junkyard and find a car that says IROC-Z on the lower portion of the door (Trans Am Firebirds from the same years will also work). On these cars you should find the 12.7:1 “XH code” steering box. You can confirm it’s the right box by looking for the original GM “XH” ID code. The ID code is ink stamped on the aluminum cap (sometimes called the end plug) at the end of the steering box. You will most likely need to clean the end of the cap to verify the code, you can use trans fluid or oil to blot the cap, just clean it enough to read the code. Do not press hard or wipe the end cap, you may wipe off the code and then you won’t know for sure if you have the right box. Code is very faint and looks like this (this particular box is YA):

XH box was available on the following cars with the following options (my understanding is it’s basically IROC Camaros). As you can see from the chart below the XH box is faster, higher effort, and has the same travel (how much the steering wheel turns in each direction).

YEAR CODE APPLICATION RATIO EFFORT T-BAR TRAVEL
1985 XH Level IV 12.7:1 28-34 0.210 Dia 32deg
1986 XH V8 FE2 12.7:1 28-34 0.210 Dia 32deg
1987-93 XH FE2 Level IV 12.7:1 28-34 0.210 Dia 32deg

YEAR CODE APPLICATION RATIO EFFORT T-BAR TRAVEL
1968 ?? All? 17.5:1 15-21 0.175 Dia 31deg

I would not order a reman box from cardone, or any other local shop as others suggest…you may not get the fast box, do we really think the guys that rebuild these boxes care if the insides are fast or slow, do they car if the box has the right internals for the car it come on? They don’t, they slam em together and sell em back as reman units. 99% of the people that own these old cars don’t care about the steering and can’t tell the difference anyway. That’s why I highly recommend getting one from the junkyard so you know exactly what you are getting. 

Power Steering Pump (Original GM). I just used my original pump that was in my Camaro. If you are not using an original pump I can’t tell you what will work…but maybe others can. I also do not know how to make this work with a LS1 engine, Ill cross that bridge when I do the swap in my car. : )

Power Steering Pump Valve (Junk yard). While at the junkyard it’s important that you get the valve from the high pressure line that comes out of the back of the pump, preferably from the same IROC Camaro that you got the steering box. The IROC steering boxes run at higher pressures than the original 60’s Camaro boxes, approximately 1400 psi vs. 950 psi. The IROC box will need this higher pressure to operate correctly.

To get the stuff you need remove the high-pressure hose from the back of the power steering pump (It’s the one with the big fitting). Then remove the fitting by unscrewing it. If you stick your finder in the hole you will feel the valve but it’s hard to get out. There are 3 ways to remove: 1) use a skinny magnet and pull it out, 2) push it in all the way (compressing the spring) and release quickly and hope that it flies out, 3) remove the pump from the car and tilt it over so it falls out. Obviously the magnet is the easiest more reliable way to go. Here are the parts you need to remove: (See Figure #3).

(you need #5, #6, #23, #24 on the attached image)

This valve assembly will directly bolt in to your original first gen Camaro power steering pump! (Nice to know GM used the same steering technology for well over 20 years, way to go GM!!…no wonder they’ve lost so much market share in that time, hey, our stupid customers won’t notice the 20 year old technology in our cars so let’s not bother changing it… but that’s another story, anyway…)

Steering Coupler (GM). This is the item mentioned above that needs to be replaced when swapping in the new box. It’s a GM steering coupler that will connect to a XH box ¾ input shaft. It is available through GM dealers (part number 7826542). It is expensive (around $80 list) but it is brand new, and hey, the box itself only cost $50 at the junkyard. Be sure to get the attaching pinch bolt, nuts, and lock washers when you purchase the flexible coupling, if you don’t already have them. Flexible couplings attach to the steering gear with a special pinch bolt (#7807271). This bolt can be purchased from any GM dealer. You may be able to use your old hardware too. 

Power Steering Hose: High Pressure Line (ANPlumbing.com…my local shop, or your own local shop). When I did my steering box swap I went to the auto parts store and they let me look through the catalog at all the available power steering hoses. I was hoping to find one with the right fittings and length from a different car to use on my 68 Camaro. I bought 8 hoses that seemed like they would work, none did. Clearly off-the-shelf parts were not going to work. I did not feel comfortable using the Lee Engineering adapter on the high pressure line (leaks can catch fire if the oil hits the exhaust manifolds/headers and the pressures are super high), so I knew I would have to do a custom hose.

Good news is making your own hose is easy, I went to AN plumbing which is a local shop near my house in Los Angeles. Check out the how to video on their site: http://www.anplumbing.com. Click on “Tech Videos”. If the site has changed you may have to look around. How-to video is also on YouTube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LovY7kedyE. As you can see from the video making your own hose is pretty easy.

Starting with the 1980 model year, the inlet and outlet ports on the gear were converted from old school 45 degree flare fittings of 5/8-18 UNF and 11/16-18 UNS female ports to new-style o-ring connections with 16x1.5mm and 18x1.5mm female threaded ports. Remember, the top fitting near the steering wheel is the return line, and the fitting near the front of the car is the high-line.

Call ANPlumbing.com tech line and tell them exactly what you are doing, they should be able to help, I think you can order what you need to make a hose directly from them. You will need:

1. 16x1.5mm fitting to attach to the steering box.
2. The fitting that attaches on the back of the power steering pump.
3. Power Steering Hose: Im not sure which one I used, sorry, my dad actually went to the store for me so I don’t know, thanks dad! : ) Ask the guys what to use for Power Steering. Im sure they will know (Use your old hose as a gauge for the length)

Of course you could also just use the pressure line adapter from Lees Engineering (http://lee-powersteering.com).

Power Steering Hose: Low Pressure Return Line (Classic Industries). Use the existing stock hose that is on your car now (but now may be a good time to replace it if its old). It will work as long as you have the Lees Engineering adapter that sits in the return hose port on the top of the box. 

Steering Box Adapters (Lee Engineering). These are the fittings on the top of the steering box, where the hoses come in. Starting with the 1980 model year, the inlet and outlet ports on the gear were converted from conventional 45 degree flare fittings with 5/8-18 UNF and 11/16-18 UNS female ports to o-ring connections with 16x1.5mm and 18x1.5mm female threaded ports.

There are two different inserts (#40620: Pressure, #40630: Return) and he sells them at a great price. Lee Manufacturing, http://lee-powersteering.com (818) 768-0371

Pitman Arm (Junkyard, Craigslist, eBay, or remanufactured units). According to Pozzi Racing (thanks guys) the original power steering idler arm will work but the manual steering idler arm will NOT work. Again, if your car did not have power steering you will need to do more research, start with the link below from Pozzi Racing.

Fluid (GM). Ex GM engineer Jim Shea who posted some great stuff on a Chevelle website (link below, thanks Jim for all the great info) strongly suggested to use GM fluid, the system is designed to work with that fluid. I tend to listen to GM engineers with decades of experience so I paid a few bucks more and got the GM fluid. Part: GM 1050017 (old#) or GM 89020661 (new#).

Flush system: Flush the system by connecting everything except the return line to the pump. Then start the car and let the fluid run out into a jar. Shut of the engine after a half quart or so has come out and then top off the reservoir. Repeat a few times, top off the reservoir and you are done. Once everything is hooked up turn the steering from lock to lock to get rid of air bubbles in the system. 

Alignment: Bad toe-in will tear your tires up! Get it aligned once completed. Don’t cheap out and not do this, you will tear up your tires!!

What a great swap, and it looks factory too so even guys with original cars can make this swap and few will notice.

The steering is noticeably heavier and is now 2.5 turns lock-to-lock instead of 3.5, a great improvement! In fact, when I first did the swap it felt strange but of course now I love it.

Some people said turn signal cancelation would be a problem since the steering wheel does not turn as many turns now when turning…huh. Anyway, I have not any problems so I would not worry about this.

I just need to add some caster now, 2 degrees is not enough, Im hoping for 6-8 degrees.

For reference, my information came from others, I merely tried to pull it all together in an easy to read and understand format, hopefully it helps. Serious props to these guys who gathered this data.

Read more:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ade/index.html
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/shea_1.html
http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_steering.htm
http://jeffd.50megs.com/Pump_valve_mod_page.htm
http://lee-powersteering.com

Please keep in mind that these sites may be referring to other models and years, so be careful.  This applies specifically to a 68 Camaro with factory power steering.

Estimated the costs for the steering:

Estimated Costs:
Steering Box, IROC-Z, “XH Code” $50 (Junkyard)
Streering Coupler, new $80 (GM)
Custom high-pressure steering line $100 (ANPlumming.com)
Adapter fitting for low pressure return line $6 (Lees Engineering)
GM Power Steering Fluid $20 (Amazon.com)
TOTAL $250 ish

Warning: Attempt all of these modifications at your own risk. If you are not sure of your abilities do not attempt these modifications. I am not responsible for any information in this article; it is simply a recap of how I performed this modification. Your vehicle may be different, please consult a professional regarding everything you read here.

source: http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/82880-How-to-swap-3rd-Gen-IROC-Camaro-Steering-Box-into-1st-Gen-Camaro
by Pete

YOU ARE NOT JUST BUYING PARTS – YOU ARE GETTING OUR CAMARO EXPERTISE

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar 

http://www.stevescamaroparts.com

1967 - 1969 Camaro Parts - 1967 Chevrolet Camaro - The Lost Z/28- Steves Camaro Parts San Bruno - 650-873-1890

This is a story without the usual ending. In the classic barn find narrative, our hero unearths a long-lost iconic muscle car in some barn in rural Iowa discovered after accidentally overhearing a lunchtime conversation. He then completes a meticulous restoration that wows the assembled throng, who sings his praises, making him an instant celebrity.

None of that happens here.

Like the drag racer who said, "I'd rather be lucky than good," this story is all about being at the right place at the right time and sweetened with a heaping tablespoon of dumb luck.

When I somehow managed to bluff then-Car-Craft-Editor Rick Voegelin into hiring me as a wet-nosed feature editor in the spring of 1979, my future ex-wife, Susan, and I moved to Burbank, California. After a few weeks of learningthe art of negotiating L.A. freeways, we began the search for the car she wanted-a red '66 Mustang fastback. While I harbor no ill feelings toward Fords, I secretly planned to convince her that an early Camaro was a far better choice. We spent a whole Saturday looking at a rash of unworthy Mustangs.

After dismissing all the previous Fords, there was a Camaro just around the corner that we investigated. After a quick once-over, the Camaro appeared a bit shabby but straight. During the testdrive, the engine detonated badly, but I had already decided to buy the car-with her money. The Camaro was fitted with what I assumed was a 275hp 327, a Powerglide with a nonstock but OE shifter that looked like it came out of an early Vette, front disc brakes, 15-inch Rally wheels, and dual exhaust. The Granada Gold color and gold interior were lame, but we drove the Camaro away for $1,250. As we learned later, that was the deal of a lifetime.

One thing it did do well was accelerate, especially for a Powerglide car. Nailing the throttle produced impressive tire spin from both tires, but it detonated badly. What was odd was what appeared to be a factory-installed square-tube traction bar on the passenger side of the car. After we had owned the car for a couple of weeks, I decided to determine if the engine was original to the car. The sequence stamped into the block matched the VIN stamped in the doorjamb, so it appeared this was the original engine. When I looked up the two-letter MP code stamped into the block, my motor's manual listed this as a '67 290hp 327 with AIR. I knew that couldn't be correct because that was a Z/28 engine-and at this point I didn't want to believe this was a Z/28. Where were the aluminum intake, Holley carb, and four-speed?

I began to do research in earnest, and most of my contacts at that time scoffed at the idea that the car was a Z/28. I mentioned all this one day to Jim McFarland, who at this time was the vice president of R&D at Edelbrock. He told me about someone named Jim Losee who had previously worked at Edelbrock and knew an awful lot about Z/28s and that I could find him at Gledhill Chevrolet in Wilmington, California. I called Jim and we took the car to him one weekday evening.

Jim and I spent the next few hours partially disassembling the car looking for clues. The fact that the engine numbers matched was a puzzle to him, and he was equally skeptical. We counted tire revolutions and realized the car had a 3.73:1 rear gear, which was the standard Z/28 gear along with what Jim recognized as a factory traction bar. Up front the car had the correct disc brakes and Z/28-only 15-inch Rally wheels. It even had this rectangular hole cut in the firewall that was the exact dimension for what would have been a cowl-induction air cleaner. All this pointed to the fact that the car was a Z/28, but Jim was still not convinced.

This is what the engine compartment looked like just after we bought the car. All Z/28s de

The previous owner told me he had put an Earl Scheib paint job on the car, and Jim and I already knew that in 1967 the only external cue for the Z/28 was the factory stripes in a contrasting color. After a couple of hours of searching, we had not found anything conclusive. Remember, this was long before anyone had deciphered the mystical trim tag hieroglyphics, so we were hunting without knowing about the magic 4L code I would learn much later. That's when Jim saw a faint yet visible paint contrast just at the base of the rear window where the trunk seal met the body. There he saw two sets of what had to be factory-applied black stripes that carried over in the trunk seal area.

"You see that?" Jim asked me, pointing to the stripes that were all but painted over.

"Yeah!" I said because we both knew at that point, we had proved to ourselves that this was a Z/28.

"You, my friend, own a '67 Z/28 . . . wanna sell it?"

At that moment, a guy I had previously never met instantly became a good friend that I am proud to say extends to this day. Jim now lives in Texas and is still deeply buried in this wonderful automotive lifestyle that affects everything we both do.

This is the collection of repair receipts and canceled checks Mary Bobel collected over th

Along the way, I also learned much more about the Z/28's history. The gentleman who sold me the car was a mere intermediary. We'll get back to him in a minute. In the glovebox was a collection of receipts all pointing to a woman by the name of Mary Bobel. From these records, it appeared she had owned the car since 1969, and I found her living in Monrovia, California (yes, that's almost Pasadena). Susan and I set up an appointment to talk, and this wonderful lady filled in much of the car's missing history. In 1969, she was looking for a car, and her son found this Granada Gold Camaro with black stripes sitting on the used car lot at Lindy Chevrolet in Arcadia. The car was equipped in much the same condition as I purchased it 19 years later, but Mary was quick to point out that it was in fact a Z/28

In a disappointing sidebar to this tale, in the middle of our discussion, I asked Mary if she had ever seen a small plate that looked like a metal credit card. This perky little lady immediately said, "I think I still have it." She disappeared into a side room for several minutes only to reappear with a frown. "I just remembered that I cleaned out the closet where I kept that a couple of weeks ago. I threw all that stuff into the garbage. I'm sorry." For a moment or two, I had this vision of me sifting through mountains of garbage, searching for a '67 Camaro Protect-O-Plate.

After driving the Camaro for 10 years, Mary sold it to a friend for the princely sum of $500. At the time, Mary said she told him the car was a Z/28. "But I don't think he believed me." That would be his loss. He had the car painted and then sold it to us.

I now knew more about the car's history and slowly began collecting a few OE parts in anticipation of a full restoration. But since Car Craft was never a muscle car restoration magazine, there was never a push to rebuild it. Plus, there always seemed to be other projects that were more important. I eventually moved to Hot Rod as editor, and the demands on my time with travel and two young children meant the car just sat. We bought a new house a few miles away with a bigger yard to store more cars, and that's when my marriage came apart and I ended up with the car.

The Camaro has changed very little from the days when Susan drove it every day to work. The disc brake calipers began to leak back in the early '80s, which was a common affliction. I had Stainless Steel Brakes install stainless liners in the calipers, which is how that company got its start-rebuilding Corvette calipers. The engine is still disassembled and sitting in my shop, maintaining the same state of disassembly for more than 25 years. Like I said in the beginning of this soliloquy, this story has not yet arrived at its Cinderella ending. The car is exactly as you see it in the current photos. I have most of the parts to put it back together, and I've even toyed with the idea of building the engine, tossing a wide-ratio Muncie behind it, and getting it running, shabby seats and all. Maybe that's the next new movement for barn find cars. It might be a hoot. Then again, maybe not...

The Z/28 Option

The whole reason the Z/28 was created was to compete with the Fords and Mopars in the SCCA Trans-Am series. The over 2.0L class limited displacement to 5.0 liters, or 305 ci. Since Chevy didn't have a 5.0L engine, it responded in classic car crafter fashion by building a 302ci engine using a small-journal 327 4.00-inch-bore block and a forged-steel 3.00-inch-stroke 283 crankshaft. The cam was the classic Duntov 30-30 mechanical lifter camshaft along with a set of 462 iron 2.02/1.60-inch valve heads, an aluminum dual-plane intake manifold, and a Holley carburetor.

Since this was a road race car, Chevy bolted on a set of RPO J52 four-piston disc brake calipers and then specified a set of 15 x 6-inch Rally wheels mounted with 7.35 x 15-inch tires. A Muncie four-speed was the only transmission available (close ratio was standard, wide ratio was optional) along with a standard 3.73:1 rear gear and a factory-installed traction bar. This was back in the day when you could also get as deep as a 4.88:1 gear straight off the factory order form. The minimal Z/28 package in 1967 was the engine, four-speed, a 3.73:1-geared 12-bolt, and power disc brakes. Other options such as the RS package, headers, cowl induction, an air cleaner, a vinyl top, the spoiler package, and tach and gauges were available. My car did have a few options, including a tinted windshield, a console, and Positraction, along with a radio and a heater.

Everyone knows there were only 602 of these cars built in 1967. What I've never uncovered (not that I've looked very hard) is the number of Z/28s delivered for sale with the California emissions package. This has to reduce the number down to perhaps a few dozen at most.

source: http://www.carcraft.com/featuredvehicles/ccrp_0909_1967_chevrolet_camaro/

By Jeff Smith, Photography by Jeff Smith, Wes AlIison

YOU ARE NOT JUST BUYING PARTS – YOU ARE GETTING OUR CAMARO EXPERTISE

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar 

http://www.stevescamaroparts.com

1967 - 1969 Camaro Parts - HOW GEORGE LYONS WRANGLED AND RESTORED A SUPER-RARE '69 CAMARO PACE CAR - Steves Camaro Parts San Bruno - 650-873-1890

In 1969 the Chevrolet Camaro was selected to be the Official Pace Car of the '69 Indianapolis 500. It was a repeat performance of their selection for the 1967 rendition. For the 53rd running of the race at Indy, Chevrolet knew the car had to be striking— and, indeed, the Dover White and Hugger Orange Official Pace Cars that were out in force at the track that day, were, indeed, just that.

Future collector, restorer and muscle car historian George Lyons, a budding Camaro enthusiast at the time, never could shake the indelible image of that gorgeous pace-setter, and a little over a quarter of a century later would seek out his very own '69 Camaro Pace Car. And what he eventually stumbled across in a suburban Cleveland garage while on his quest was one of the most coveted of the all the '69 Camaro pacers— a 100 percent complete, rust-free version that sported the ultra-rare L89 motor.

While historians can't agree on an exact number, the popular opinion is that only seven to ten of these 375HP versions were ever produced.

We recently sat down with George, a frequent contributor to The BLOCK, to find out how he procured this insanely rare, high profile Camaro, and restored it to the immaculate assembly-line quality machine you'll see in the photos today.

Welcome back, George. We're glad to have you again. So, tell us a little bit about how you happened upon this ultra-rare '69 Camaro Pace Car

GEORGE LYONS

Going back as far as 1975 I had great success advertising in larger city newspapers, in the cities surrounding me, including Pittsburgh, PA, Cleveland, OH, and Buffalo, NY. I would advertise in the wanted section for particular types of cars, different collectible cars. And, of course, most of the success I had with this was well before the growth of the Internet. Back in 2001, I'd advertised in the Cleveland Plain Dealer. I was looking for early Camaros, and I listed them by model: Z-28s, Super Sports, good cars or good restoration projects.

One day, I got a call from a gentleman that described a 69 Indy Pace Car Camaro Convertible, and I was immediately interested by two things he told me: It was a 396 big-block car, and it came out of Arizona. He'd purchased the car and brought it back with him to Cleveland, though he'd never really done much with it. I told him, of course, I was very interested, and made the trip to Ohio the following day. I knew it was a good bet that I'd probably see a good, solid, rust-free car, being that it was coming out of Arizona.

When you arrived at your destination, what did you uncover?

GEORGE LYONS

Well, when I first saw the car I was thrilled with the condition, as far as being a great core car for a restoration. As I expected, there was no rust, deterioration, modifications, or damage. But, overall the car was in somewhat tired condition: very poor amateur repaint, tired interior and convertible top, and fairly tired mechanicals— but the car was 100% complete. And it just got better the more I looked… Not only was it a 396; but it was a 375hp car, the high-performance 396 paired to a 4-speed. So, then I checked the engine numbers only to find out that this was a "Code JJ" motor, which is not only a 375 but also the ultra-rare L89 Aluminum head car.

I was absolutely astounded to discover that. I'd only ever seen one other one in my life.

The word is that Chevrolet built a total of ten, which may have included the three that were used at the speedway as pace cars and backup cars. But, we do know the number is between seven and ten as the total build number of these L89 Pace Cars.

I can tell you once I saw the car and inspected it; I was determined to own it. Once I found out what it was, I mean, there was no question I was going to own this thing.

So, now you've purchased this incredibly rare Camaro. What do you do from there?

GEORGE LYONS

Well, from there, I brought the car back to Erie, PA, and immediately began to sort out what I'd bought. I immediately decided that the car warranted a complete, ground-up rotisserie restoration with the highest degree of skill and new old stock quality parts. It was certainly a car that deserved to have the money spent on it, as it was such a big opportunity with it being an L89, 4-speed pace car.

We know you're meticulous with your homework, George. Can you tell us what information you were able to ascertain about this car once you got it home?

GEORGE LYONS

In addition to the documentation I received with the car, I tracked the car back to the original selling dealer, Lamb Chevrolet in Prescott, Arizona, who are still in business today. I went so far as to visit that dealership on a trip out west, and spoke to the original selling dealer's son, who actually remembered the car. He recalled they got two pace cars, one automatic, and then this monster. I also discovered that it'd changed hands once or twice in the Prescott area.

This Camaro looks like it should be in a museum somewhere, George. How difficult of a restoration was it? And what was the goal for this car?

GEORGE LYONS

It was a wonderful car underneath the paint, and, actually, as restorations go, this was fairly easy. Though, it did take about a year to complete. We really worked hard to restore the car to a correct assembly line level of finish and detail. We weren't trying to "over-restore" it, just trying to get the fine details right. We wanted to achieve the same paint quality, overspray, plating and assembly techniques that would have been used by the Camaro plant, when the car was built new.

We tried to build it to be an exact representation of what this car looked like in 1969. We really tried to use as many new old stock, factory GM parts as possible with this restoration. What reproduction items that are on the car, were things that were simply not available new.

I spent a good deal of time sourcing some of the best parts I could find to do the restoration. And, ultimately, I believe I achieved what I sought out to do with this car. It's an all-correct, original drivetrain car, and the mechanicals are completely rebuilt to stock specs. And it performs very strong. I've driven the car very little since it's been finished, but it runs and drives just like a brand new car. In the end, I couldn't have been happier with the way this restoration turned out.

Anything else you might have done that you didn't get to?

GEORGE LYONS

Well, the car is just one in my collection, and I guess the only thing I haven't gotten to do is drive it nearly as much as I'd like!

Thanks, George. As always, we're glad to have you as a contributor on The BLOCK. And we'll look forward to seeing you again real soon.

GEORGE LYONS

Thanks for having me! We have some great stuff on the horizon, and I can't wait to share it with the community!

source: https://theblock.com/news/how-george-lyons-wrangled-and-restored-super-rare-69-camaro-pace-car

chevroletperformance.com

The BLOCK © 2014 Chevrolet Performance

YOU ARE NOT JUST BUYING PARTS – YOU ARE GETTING OUR CAMARO EXPERTISE

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar 

http://www.stevescamaroparts.com

1967 - 1969 Camaro Parts - Buyers Guide: 1967 - 1969 Camaro Part 2 - Steves Camaro Parts San Bruno - 650-873-1890

Whats's Hot
•Great engines: 302, 327, 350, 396, 427...
•Classic body always turns heads
•NOS, factory-authorized reproduction, and aftermarket parts most plentiful as any collector car out there.

Whats's Not
•Rust prone in critical areas
•Watch out for misrepresented clones and fakes
•Interiors will never be squeak- and rattle-free
Hot Tip
•Even a plain-Jane Camaro can be a blast to drive; you don't have to spend $100,000 to have a good time.

Avoid
•Deals that look too good to be true. Watch for Z/28 and SS fakes.
Most Collectible
•The 1969 ZL-1. Sixty-nine were produced--they have the all-aluminum 427 and went from zero to 60 in just a tick over five second

Best Performer
•If the ZL-1's out of your price range, the 1969 Z/28 was a 302 with a claimed 290 horsepower. Although General Motors swore this was an accurate number, others have found the power closer to 350.
Best Daily Driver
•You can't go wrong with one of the 327/350-cubic-inch V-8s.
Bottom Line
•One of America's greatest ponycars ever; easy to restore and fun to drive.
Through The Years
•1967 General Motors needs a response to the Mustang. It builds one, which the Ford still outsells, but the Camaro becomes a legend in its own right. Eight engine options, manual and automatic trans available. Super Sport and Rally Sport options both sell well, sometimes on the same car. Only 1967s feature a vent window.
•1968 Minor changes to the second-year car. VIN plate is relocated, the grille updated with rectangular turn-signal lights, SS side striping revised. The seats are updated, as is the steering wheel, and a new 396 is added to the line.
•1969 For the final year with this body style, there are clear changes. The front end takes on a more defined V shape, and the grille contains a recessed silver or black grid. Taillights are wider, the gas cap is relocated, and the wheel openings are more square. This year also represents the year of the ZL-1, the most valuable COPO. This production year continues through November, and there are more 1969 Camaros produced than either of the previous years.

1. 1967 RS hideaway headlights used electric motors that tended to burn out. 1968/1969 went to a less breakage-prone vacuum setup.

2. This paint scheme combines a Hugger Orange body with Tuxedo Black Z/28 stripes.
3. The teakwood-look three-spoke steering wheel was a desirable option, especially when combined with the tilt option. Front windows come loose from window regulators and need to be resecured with lockwashers.

4. Rear-window regulators tend to freeze up from non-use. An easy fix.
5. Vinyl-covered steel tops were available all three years, with all exterior colors, but in 1969, the vinyl no longer ran the full width of the car. Watch for rust buildup beneath the top.

6. 1967s had monoleaf rear springs prone to wheelhop, which resulted in damage to spring and shock mounts. For 1968, the system was replaced with a multileaf setup with staggered shocks, which cured the problem.
7. Early Camaros suffered from a weak motor-mount design. Make sure they're in good shape or replace them with later, interlocking-style mounts.
8. Rust can be a problem for all years, depending upon where the car lived and how it was cared for. Two most rust-prone areas to check are the front fenders, just behind the wheel openings, and the trunk floorpan on leak-prone convertibles.
9. Subframe to body mounts can disintegrate over time. There are better compounds out there today that last longer. Switching to polyurethane or aluminum can be an even longer-lasting choice, but these may squeak.
10. This Z/28 has four-wheel disc brakes. The JL8 option was available only in 1969.
11. Early 1969 Z/28s used the 1968 15x6.0-inch Rally wheel, then switched to this 15x7.0-inch model.

Expect To Pay
Year	Model	Low-High
1967-1969	I-6 hardtop	$3020-$12,720
1967-1969	V-8 convertible	$3000-$28,000
1967-1969	Super Sport	$2500-$77,000
1967-1969	Z/28	$8500-$221,000
1967, 1969	Pace Car	$26,000-$66,900
1967-1969	Yenko	$250,000-$300,000
1969	ZL-1	$500,000-$1,000,000

Parts And Service
Major service(every 15,000 miles)	$250
Clutch replacement (parts/labor)	$320
Alternator (part only)	$125
Windshield (part only, incl. seal)	$200
Muffler (part)	$125

Special Models

Z/28 The Z/28 was the model built for SCCA racing. The engine is a 302, making sure this production car was eligible for Trans-Am events. It came only as a hardtop. Along with the 302 and manual trans, it received heavy-duty front and rear suspension and a special exhaust, and it is probably the best-handling Camaro. Special items, including a Cross-Ram system with two four-barrel Holley carbs, are hard to find on Z/28s.

Pace Car For two years out of three, the first-gen Camaro was selected as Pace Car for the Indianapolis 500. For both of those years, a Pace Car Replica was available. The 1967 was white with blue stripes, the 1969 SS was white with orange.

Yenko Several dealerships offered special-edition Camaros. One of these, who seemed to have easier access to Central Office Production Order 427, was Yenko Chevrolet. It made Camaro conversions starting in 1967, and the high-performance, limited-edition musclecars are still in demand.

source:  From the March 2006 issue of Motor Trend

http://www.motortrend.com/classic/features/c12_0603_1967_1969_chevrolet_camaro_buyers_guide/#ixzz32t8yoHme

OU ARE NOT JUST BUYING PARTS – YOU ARE GETTING OUR CAMARO EXPERTISE

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar 

http://www.stevescamaroparts.com