Steves Camaro Parts - 1967-1969 Camaro Interior Facts

1967-69 Camaro Interior Facts

 

 

1967 was the only year to have the VIN on the door jamb.

 

The VIN for 1968 and 1969 models can be found on the dash.

 

All three years used different dashpads; 1969 used a different pad for with air conditioning and without.

 

All three years used different metal dash (repair panels).

 

Pillar post moldings in 1967 were available in chrome-plate or plastic. Padded pillar post moldings were introduced in 1968 and used throughout 1969 (different design between years). Coupes in all three years differed from convertibles. 

First Generation Camaro carpets were available in the following colors: Black 1967-1969, red 1967-1969, bright blue 1967, gold 1967, turquoise 1967-1968, medium blue 1968, ivy green/gold 1968, dark green 1969, and dark blue 1969. 

Headliners for 1967 were in the Impala Leather grain and were available in black, red, light blue, bright blue (deluxe interior), gold, and turquoise. The grain changed in 1968 to Bedford Ribbed, which was also used in 1969. 

Colors available in 1968 were black, red, medium blue, and ivy green/gold. In 1969 color selections were white, dark blue, dark green, black, red, and moss green. 

While the sunvisors for 1967 and 1968 are similar, the grain pattern would match the headliner and would be different between the two years. Sun visors in 1969 were longer and also sported the Bedford Ribbed grain. Convertible sun visors were padded with vinyl instead of headliner material. 

The sail panel sections were the same for all three years, however the grain would match the headliner. 

 

All 1967 to 1969 package trays were the basic fit. Color selections differed through the years. Black and red were available for all three years. Also available in 1967 were bright blue, light blue, and gold. In 1968 in addition to black and red, medium blue and ivy green/gold were available. 

In 1969 dark blue and dark green were available also. The carpet was an 80/20 combination loop pile two-piece carpet. 

Deluxe mesh trays were available in 1967-1969 black and red, 1967-1968 turquoise. 1967 gold, 1968 medium blue, and 1969 dark blue and dark green. 

 

 

The sill plates (Body by Fisher) were the same for all three first generation years.
Glove boxes were the same in 1967 and 1968, but with air conditioning was different than without due to the ductwork. In 1969, glove box design was changed. With air conditioning was again different than without.

1967 and 1968 used the same glove box lock and catch assembly; 1969 went to a different design.

It should be noted that a 1969 white interior received white seats and door panels; but black dashpad, carpet, and package tray. In 1967 and 1968, pearl/parchment received the same treatment.

source: http://www.firstgencamaro.com/interior.html

 

 

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Steves Camaro Parts - Understanding Torque Converters 1st Generation Camaros

The Torque Converter in Automatic Transmissions.

Understanding Torque Converters

The torque converter is one of the most misunderstood – or, perhaps, non-understood – parts of the powertrain. Torque converters are sealed units; their innards rarely see the light of day, and when they do, they're still pretty hard to figure out! This article will take you on a guided tour of the torque converter from front to back (well, technically, we'll go back to front), and help you to understand how the parts work together.

Let's start with a little theory. The torque converter in an automatic transmission serves the same purpose as the clutch in a manual transmission. The engine needs to be connected to the rear wheels so the vehicle will move, and disconnected so the engine can continue to run when the vehicle is stopped. One way to do this is to use a device that physically connects and disconnects the engine and the transmission – a clutch. Another method is to use some type of fluid coupling, such as a torque converter.

Imagine you have two fans facing each other. Turn one fan on, and it will blow air over the blades of the second fan, causing it to spin. But if you hold the second fan still, the first fan will keep right on spinning.

That's exactly how a torque converter works. One "fan," called the impeller, is connected to the engine (together with the front cover, it forms the outer shell of the converter). The other fan, the turbine, is connected to the transmission input shaft. Unless the transmission is in neutral or park, any motion of the turbine will move the vehicle.

Instead of using air, the torque converter uses a liquid medium, which cannot be compressed – oil, otherwise known as transmission fluid. The spinning impeller pushes the oil against the turbine, causing it to spin. But if the turbine is held still (the car is stopped with the brakes applied) the impeller can keep right on spinning. 

Release the brakes, and the turbine is free to turn. Step on the accelerator and the impeller will spin faster, pushing more oil against the blades of the turbine and making it spin faster.

Once the oil has been pushed against the turbine blades, it needs to get back to the impeller so it can be used again. (Unlike our fan analogy, where we have a room full of air, the transmission is a sealed vessel that only holds so much oil.) That's where the stator comes in.

 

The stator is a small finned wheel that sits between the impeller and the turbine. The stator is not attached to either the turbine or the impeller – it freewheels, but only in the same direction as the other parts of the converter (a one-way clutch ensures that it can only spin in one direction). When the impeller spins, the moving oil pushes against the fins of the stator. 

The one-way clutch keeps the stator still, and the fins redirect the oil back to the impeller. As the turbine speeds up, oil begins to flow back to the impeller on its own (a combination of the turbine's design and centrifugal force). The oil now pushes on the back side of the stator's fins, and the one-way clutch allows it to spin. It's job now done, the stator spins freely and doesn't affect oil flow.

 

Because there is no direct connection in the torque converter, the impeller will always spin faster than the turbine – a factor known as "slippage." Slippage needs to be controlled, otherwise the vehicle might never move. That's where the stall speed comes in. Let's say a torque converter has a stall speed of 2,500 RPM. 

If the vehicle isn't moving by the time the engine (and therefore the impeller) reaches 2,500 RPM, one of two things will happen: either the vehicle will start to move, or the engine RPM will stop increasing. (If the vehicle won't move by the time the converter reaches the stall speed, either it's overloaded or the driver is holding it with the brakes.)

The stall speed is a key factor, because it determines how and when power will be delivered to the transmission under all conditions. Drag racing engines produce power at high RPM, so drag racers will often use a converter with a high stall speed, which will slip until the engine is producing maximum power. 

Diesel trucks put out most of their power at low RPM, so a torque converter with a low stall speed is the best way to get moving with a heavy load.

 

And now we get to one of the best-kept performance secrets: by altering the design of the torque converter, it is possible to tune the stall speed to match an engine's power curve.

 

Torque converter slippage is important during acceleration, but it becomes a liability once the vehicle reaches cruising speed. That's why virtually all modern torque converters use a lock-up clutch.

The purpose of the lockup clutch is to directly connect the engine and the transmission once slippage is no longer needed. When the lockup clutch is engaged, a plate attached to the turbine is hydraulically pushed up against the front cover (which, you will recall, is connected to the impeller), creating a solid connection between the engine and transmission. 

Having the engine and transmission directly connected lowers the engine speed for a given vehicle speed, which increases fuel economy.

 

If a vehicle has a heavy enough load, its possible for the lockup clutch to slip, which can cause excessive heat and wear. How can the clutch be prevented from slipping? Since the converter clutch is held in place by oil pressure, its possible to increase the pressure for a firmer lock, though too much pressure can d amage the transmission's oil seals. Another way is to use a multi-element clutch, which sandwiches an additional layer of friction material between the clutch plate and the front cover. A third method is to use better material on the clutch face a fourth is to increase the clutch surface.

 

What other ways are there to improve a torque converter? We've already discussed the use of a tuned stall speed and a more durable lockup clutch. Another area that can be improved is the front cover, which is the side of the converter that faces (and is attached to) the engine's flywheel or flexplate.

 

Since the front cover connects directly to the engine, it is subject to incredible amounts of stress. Many stock torque converters use a stamped steel front cover because they cost less, but under high power loads they can bend or deform. The solution is to use a billet front cover.

 

Technically speaking, a billet part is something that is machined from a solid chunk of material. Some torque converter manufacturers use a solid disc and weld it to the sidewall, while others simply weld a reinforcement ring into the stock stamped-steel cover. This compromises the cover's strength and can cause it to warp under load. The strongest covers are precision-machined from a single piece of forged steel, which is then welded to the impeller to form the outer shell.

 

So as you can see, the torque converter isn't just a "little black box." It's a complex device that, if properly tuned, can have a tremendous impact on your vehicle's performance, economy and durability, and turn your automatic from a "slushbox" into a powerhouse!

Understanding Stall Speed

Let's start by illustrating how the stall speed works. Even under light loads, a vehicle with an automatic transmission will start moving as soon as you take your foot off the brake. The stall speed comes into play under all load conditions. When we talk about stall speed, we're referring to engine RPM. If the vehicle isn't moving by the time the impeller reaches the stall speed, either it will start to move, or the engine RPM will no longer increase. In other words, stall speed is the engine RPM at which the torque converter transfers the power of the engine to the transmission.

In the real world, the torque converter's stall speed roughly equates to the clutch engagement point on a manual transmission. Let's say you're driving your stick-shift car around town. Normally, you'd give the car a little gas and ease off the clutch pedal gently enough to get a smooth start. Likewise, under most driving conditions the torque converter will start delivering power to the transmission at relatively low engine RPM.

 

Now, let's say you need lots of power, either to make a fast getaway or to start with a heavy load. You'd rev the engine up to a point where it delivers more power before letting up on the clutch pedal. It's under those same circumstances that the stall speed becomes important. The torque converter will allow the engine to build RPM without turning the output shaft (the turbine) until the stall speed is reached.

 

Let's go inside a high-stall torque converter under heavy load. The impeller (input side) of the torque converter is spinning quickly, while the turbine (output side) is spinning slowly or not at all. The motion energy of the impeller is being converted into heat energy, most of which is passed on to the transmission fluid. The higher the stall speed, the more heat will be generated. Heat is the enemy of a transmission. You want to keep the fluid temperature as low as possible. With a lower stall speed, less time elapses before the motion energy of the impeller is converted to motion energy to drive the turbine, so the transmission runs cooler and lives longer. If you have a high stall converter in your car, always use a good transmission fluid radiator or heat exchange, for your transmission to live longer

 

What many people don't know is that the torque converter is a tunable device. Stall speed is determined by several factors, including the distance between the impeller and the turbine and the design of the stator. By properly modifying the converter's internal components, it's possible to alter the stall speed and create a torque converter that is tuned for a particular engine.

Source: Aaron Gold
http://www.firstgencamaro.com/torqueconverter.html

 

 

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Steves Camaro Parts - First Generation Camaro Differentials Data

Camaro 1967-1969
	10-bolt	12-bolt
Casting Number	3894859NF	3894860NF
Bolt Diameter	3/8	3/8
Ring Gear Diameter	8.20	8.875
Pinion Diameter	1.438	1.625
Axle Splines	28	30
Overall Dimensions:
Axle tube flange to axle tube flange	54 1/4	54 1/4
Between centerlines of spring seats	42 7/16	42 7/16
Shaft Length	29 33/64	29 9/16

Below is a list of positraction casting numbers. Gearing "up" indicates that the Posi Traction Unit is applicable to gearing Numerically Higher. Gearing "down" indicates that the Posi Traction Unit is applicable to gearing Numerically Lower.

Axle	Casting Number	Series	Gearing
12-bolt passenger	ED 32088	2	2.73:1 and down
	30140PM1	3	3.08 to 3.73:1
	EDB 30174	4	3.90:1 and up
Corvette	ED 32297 PW 3	3	2.73 to 3.70:1
	EDB 32298	4	3.90:1 and up
8.5 Corporate	410408N	3	2.73:1 and up
	410409N	2	2.56:1 and down
8.2 10-bolt	ED 32118	2	2.73:1 and down
	ED 30116	3	3.08:1 and up

Here we show you a picture with the location of the Casting numbers for both 10 and 12 bolt differentials and the location for the Axle Stamp. The graphic is a Courtesy of Steve Brown.

 

10 Bolt Vs. 12 Bolt

Which one is better? Great question. And the answer is: it depends. The 10 bolt is lighter and needs more power to turn. The 12 bolt is a heavy duty unit, much stronger, but is HP hungry and will suck your car more horses. Take a look at your aplication, and then decide wich one is for you. Usually, behind aBig Block Chevy, you´ll want to use the12 bolt axle.

source: http://www.firstgencamaro.com/rearend.html




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Steves Camaro Parts - What is a big block Camaro Engine

What is a Big Block Chevy Engine?

"Big block" is the term used to describe the large displacement V8 engines that were developed in the USA during the 1950's and 1960's. As American automobiles grew in size and weight following the Second World War the engines powering them had to keep pace. Chevrolet had introduced their popular small block V8 in 1955 but needed something larger to power their medium duty trucks and the heavier cars that were on the drawing board. The decision was made by Chevrolet to develop an all-new design for large-displacement use. This engine family had two generations, the "W" series, and the Mark IV series., being this design, the one used on First Generation Chevy Camaros.

Development of the second generation big-block started with the so-called Mystery Motor used in Chevrolet's 1963 Daytona 500 record-setting stock cars. This "secret" engine was a substantially modified form of the "W" engine, and was subsequently released for production use in mid-1965 as the Mark IV, referred to in sales literature as the "Turbo-Jet V8."

Where the Mark IV differed from the "W" engine was in the placement of the valves and the shape of the combustion chambers. Gone was the chamber-in-block design of the "W" (which caused the power curve to drastically sag above 6500 RPM), and in its place was a more conventional wedge chamber in the cylinder head, which was now attached to a conventional 90 degree deck. The valves continued to use the displaced arrangement of the "W" engine, but were also inclined so that they would open away from the combustion chamber and cylinder walls, a design feature made possible by Chevrolet's stud mounted rocker arms. This alteration in valve placement resulted in a significant improvement in high RPM volumetric efficiency and resulted in a substantial increase in power output at racing speeds. Owing to the appearance of the compound angularity of the valves, the automotive press dubbed the engine the "porcupine" design.

As part of the head redesign, the spark plugs were relocated so that they entered the combustion chamber at an angle relative the cylinder centerline, rather than the straight in relationship of the "W" engine. This too helped high RPM performance. Due to the new spark plug angle, the clearance provided by the distinctive scalloped valve covers of the "W" model was no longer needed, and wide, rectangular covers were used.

In all forms (except the ZL-1 Can-Am model) the "rat motor," as it was later nicknamed (the small-block engine being a "mouse motor"), was slightly heavier than the "W" model, with a dry weight of about 685 pounds (310.7 kg). Aside from the new cylinder head design and the reversion to a conventional 90 degree cylinder head deck angle, the Mark IV shared many dimensional and mechanical design similarities with the "W" engine. The cylinder block, although more s ubstantial in all respects, used the same cylinder bore centers and main bearing dimensions as the older engine (in fact, the shorter stroke 348 and 409 crankshafts could be installed without modification). Like its predecessor, the Mark IV used crowned pistons, which were castings for conventional models and impact extruded (forged), solid skirt types in high performance applications.

Also retained from the "W" design were the race-proven Moraine M400 aluminum bearings first used in the 409, as well as the highly efficient "side oiling" lubrication system, which assured maximum oil flow to the main and connecting rod bearings at all times. These features, along with the robust crankcase design, sturdy forged steel crankshaft and massive four bolt main bearing caps used in the high performance versions, resulted in what many have considered to be the most rugged and reliable large displacement automotive V8 engine design of all time.

source: http://www.firstgencamaro.com/engines.html

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Steves Camaro Parts - What Small block Engines were available for First Generation Camaros

What were the Small Block engines available for First Gen Chevy Camaros?

307 in³ (5.0 L) version was produced from 1968 through 1973. Engine bore was 3.875 in (98.4 mm) with a 3.25 stroke.

The 307 replaced the 283 in Chevrolet cars and produced 200 hp (149 kW) SAE gross in the 1960s. The later emissions-modified versions produced just 115 hp (86 kW) SAE net, giving the engine one of the lowest power-per-displacement ratings of all time. Chevrolet never produced a high-performance version of this motor.

(Chevrolet produced for Outboard Marine Corporation, a high-performance marinized 307, rated at 235 and 245 hp SAE gross, depending on year, that shipped with the Corvette/Z-28's cast aluminum valve covers and Rochester QuadraJet carb. Chevy also built other versions of the OMC 307 rated at 210, 215 and 225 horsepower SAE gross.)

The 307 was also unique in the fact that its casting alloy had a very low nickel content making it relatively soft. Due to this fact, this engine has low value among rebuilders because of reduced longevity.

The 327 in³ (5.4 L) V8, introduced in 1962, was bored and stroked to 4 in (102 mm) by 3.25 in. Power ranged from 250 hp to 375 hp (186 kW to 280 kW) depending on the choice of carburetor or fuel injection. In 1962, the Duntov solid lifter cam versions produced 340 hp (254 kW), 344 ft·lbf (466 N·m) with single Carter 4-brl, and 360 hp (268 kW), 352 ft·lbf (477 N·m) with Rochester mechanical fuel injection. In 1964, horsepower increased to 365 for the now dubbed L76 version, and 375 for the fuel injected L84 respectively, making the L84 the most powerful naturally aspirated, single-cam, production small block V8 until the appearance of the 385 hp (287 kW), 385 ft·lbf (522 N·m) Generation III LS6 in 2001. * L76, L84 1963-1965; Chevrolet Corvette. This block is one of 3 displacements that underwent a major change in 1968/1969 when the main bearing size was increased from 2.30 in to 2.45 in.

The 350 in³ (5.4 L) V8. The first generation of Chevrolet small-blocks began with the 1955 Chevrolet 265 in³ (4.3 L) V8. But it was the 350 in³ (5.7L) series that set the standard for high performance. The engine's physical dimensions (oversquare 4.00 in bore and 3.48 in stroke, 102 mm by 88 mm) are nearly identical to the 400 hp (300 kW) LS2 engine of today, but of course much has changed. It is by far the most widely used Chevrolet small-block; it has been installed in everything from station wagons to sports cars, in commercial vehicles, a nd even in boats and (in highly modified form) airplanes!

A 350 is usually common with engine swaps - much of the older, pre-1968 Chevrolet V8s were usually swapped with a later 350 when engine replacement was the norm. It has been known to swap a 350 in place of a 305 since the 350 is part of the same engine family (the external dimensions of a Chevrolet small block are the same).

First usage of the 350 was in the 1967 Chevrolet Camaro and 1968 Nova producing 295 horsepower (gross); other Chevrolet vehicle lines followed suit in the year 1969.

The GM Goodwrench 350 crate motor (sold through Chevrolet dealerships) is based on the pre-1986 small block design with two dipstick locations; pre-1980 on the driver's side and post-1980 on the passenger's side. This motor was produced in Mexico since 1981 as the Targetmaster 350.

Note that Buick, Oldsmobile, and Pontiac all produced three entirely different 350 in³ V8 engines that shared nothing in common other than displacement. The Buick 350 had a 3.80 in bore and a 3.85 in stroke (96.52 mm by 97.91 mm), the Oldsmobile 350 had a 4.057 in bore and 3.53 in stroke (103 mm by 90 mm), and the Pontiac 350 had a 3.876 in bore and a 3.75 in stroke (98.5 mm by 89.66 mm).

The 302 in³ (5.4 L) V8 engine was only available in first-generation Z-28s (the 350 LT-1 was used in 2nd generation Z-28s), and was created in response to a Trans Am racing engine displacement limitation at that time of 5 litres (305ci). The 302 was created by installing a short-stroke 283ci engine crankshaft in a 327ci block, resulting in 302ci. This just fit the Trans Am limitation (the bores of the actual racing engines were tweaked to produce exactly 305ci) and this design (with special modifications for high-performance use) resulted in an unusual, high-revving engine that helped create the legend of the Z-28. The 302 was the only engine available in the first-generation Z-28.

L26 230ci/140HP L6 1BC - non-SS

L22 250ci/155HP L6 1BC - non-SS

Z28 302ci/290HP V8 4BC - Z-28 only

L14 307ci/200HP V8 2BC - non-SS, 1969 only

LF7 327ci/210HP V8 2BC - non-SS, eliminated during 1969

L30 327ci/275HP V8 4BC - non-SS, 1967-68 only

L65 350ci/250HP V8 2BC - non-SS, 1969 only

LM1 350ci/255HP V8 4BC - non-SS, regular fuel, 1969 only

L48 350ci/295HP V8 4BC - SS only, rated 300HP in 1969

source: http://www.firstgencamaro.com/engines.html

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Steves Camaro Parts - What to look for when buying a 1st Generation Camaro

 

General Motors was in a much better position in 1964 than it is today. Seemingly, the giant carmaker controlled the world market. The people running GM 41 years ago could not imagine, in their wildest hallucinations, that in 2005 the company would be struggling and continuing to bring dud after dud to market. In 1964, the Ford Motor Co. unleashed the Mustang for a waiting public, who bought the new car as fast as assembly lines could turn them out. By the end of 1966, Ford had sold 1,288,557 Mustangs, a 7.1 percent share of the entire U.S. auto industry. But GM was so powerful it would only be a matter of time before it would fight back with a pony car of its own, and by September 1966, GM introduced the Camaro. It took GM just two years to get the Camaro designed, built and into showrooms across the country. Chevrolet surprised everyone when the car was not a unitized model as the Chevy II had been. That was because Chevy engineers were not pleased with the Chevy II's ride quality and, since the Chevy II would be all-new for 1968, GM decided to design the 1967 Camaro first.

HISTORY
Although the "last" Camaro was built in 2002, the cars are still loved by millions of Camaro owners. History will show the 1967 Camaro was designed from scratch and not by simply pirating parts from other GM cars at the time. The Camaro's chassis was semi-unitized, having a sub-frame in the front and none in the rear. This was nothing new; Mercedes-Benz had done it, but it was new for Chevrolet. This layout proved to be the best of both worlds because the front sub-frame had strategically placed rubber bushings to isolate front chassis components from the body in a way that gave Camaros a ride quality like larger cars. And, of course, there was a cost factor; the rear layout could be built and priced competitively. Unit construction also was more space efficient, but you'd have a hard time convincing anyone who was stuck in the back seat of a Camaro on a long trip. The name Camaro was selected by Chevrolet General Manager Elliott (Pete) Estes, who was promoted to that position in 1965. The car was to be called Panther, but Estes liked how "Camaro" sounded. Chevrolet pulled out all the stops when it introduced the Camaro on September 21, 1966. There was a 30-minute movie The Camaro,which detailed its development. It was shown on TV and in theaters. GM also provided a complete cutaway car, introduced women's clothing called the Camaro Collection and even a Camaro road race game. Like the Mustang, the Camaro had instant success, and 220,906 were sold the first year. It came in a two-door coupe and convertible and featured front vent windows for the only time in the car's history. The roofline was more variable than the Mustang's; therefore no fastback was offered. Within 90 days of the car's introduction, there were six engine displacements available. A buyer could choose from a 230-cu.in. straight-six with 140hp, all the way up to a 396-cu.in. V-8 with 375hp. In between were 327s, a new 350 that did not appear in any other 1967 Chevrolet, and of course, the 302-cu.in. V-8 in the Z/28. Chevrolet also offered numerous options, which could make a new Camaro either a comfortable cruiser or all-out race car. Buyers could choose from 15 colors of Magic Mirror acrylic lacquer paint and eight interior colors. The option list included more than 80 options ranging from $6.35 Custom Deluxe front and rear seat belts to the $858.40 Special Performance Package on the Z/28, which included headers that came in the trunk and the cold air plenum setup, a very valuable commodity today. Camaro was a winner and, in its first year, was chosen to pace the field at the Indianapolis 500. Replicas were made and are quite valuable today.

DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
Tom Kazanji of White Plains, New York, runs Redz Auto Collision, a collision/ restoration shop, and turns out some of the finest muscle car restorations in the country. He can talk muscle cars all day and speaks very highly of his 1968 Camaro Z/28, which he bought from the second owner, who had bought it used in 1969. Tom's car is special in that it not only received extraordinary care its entire life and is now, as he calls it, "a trailer potato," but was purchased new at Berger Chevrolet in Michigan, known for selling high-performance cars in the 1960s. Despite its pristine originality, Tom did a complete restoration on the car, and even applied original-style lacquer paint with no clearcoat. All the exterior chrome is original and has been left alone. The Camaro is Le Mans Blue, with a matching interior and white stripes. All sheetmetal is original as is the interior. The car even has its original lower radiator hose after 46,000 miles and 37 years. Tom says he loves this car and that it drives and rides like his Porsche. "Sure, it doesn't handle like my Porsche, but it has E70-14 tires on it. But get in, turn the key, and that 302 is ready for bear. This car is an animal, even with just 3.73 gears. If I put in 4.11s or 4.56s, it would be a monster," he says. "This car likes high rpm; that's what the 302 was designed for. It's fine in first gear, but when you upshift that Muncie, you have to keep the revs up or it starts to stumble. It's an altogether different experience from my Porsche. If you dump the clutch at 5,000 rpm, it will burn rubber all the way down the block. There is nothing like that sensation." And, remarkably for a 1960s car, Tom believes the brakes, front disc and rear drum are more than adequate. "This car handles great. If you were to enter it in a slalom course, it would probably roll over, but for what I need it for, it handles fine."

MAINTENANCE/SUPPORT
There are probably more reproduction and NOS parts available for first-generation Camaros than any other car on the planet. It is easier to buy a seat cover for a 1967 Camaro than for a 2002 fourth-generation car. There are numerous suppliers offering a multitude of everything one needs to just spiff up an early Camaro or do a complete restoration. All sheetmetal needed to replace those rusty and bondo-filled panels is available in reproduction form. Many outlets still have NOS sheetmetal, but expect to pay much more. For those of you with a really rusty 1969 Camaro, you can now buy a complete 1969 convertible body from Dynacorn Classic Bodies, Inc., based in Oxnard, California.

CONSIDERATIONS
As with most cars from the 1960s, rust is the major caveat when buying a first-generation Camaro, says Joey Wigley, who specializes in restoring these cars at his business, Jen Jacs Restorations in Savannah, Georgia (912-966-0601). "The number one spot these cars begin to rust is around the back window. GM had a problem with how the window sloped, and water gets under the molding and sits in the window trough and rots. Once that rust starts, it leaks into the trunk, and the trunk pans go," he said. Other problem areas to search for rust are the lower bottoms of the front fenders, the floor pans and of, course, the quarter panels. Wigley says, "Also make sure and check the chrome moldings around the windshield. More times than not there is rust underneath, and you won't know it unless you remove the moldings. Water gets in behind them and rots out the top of the dash; it is quite costly to repair." He says the rear frame rails can rust too, but he hasn't seen too many problems with them in his shop on his new four-acre facility. "I wouldn't say the frame rails are a real issue, but they can rust, particularly on northern cars where road salt is dumped." Mechanically, most parts have been replaced on these cars approaching 40 years of age. Wigley suggests checking suspension components; while they are nowhere as costly as body work, it all adds up. "No one single suspension piece really stands out. I would say look at the ball joints, Pitman arm, center link and the control arm bushings," he said. "If you are buying a fully restored car and know what you are looking at, there really isn't any real concern because the car is all done, but I strongly suggest, for those not buying a high-dollar car, to avoid a freshly painted car. If it was painted, say, four years ago, over bondo, it will start to bubble and you'll see the problems, but if it was painted a month ago, those problems are not going to show up; so be very leery of new paint on a car that was not fully restored." Wigley also urges would-be buyers who don't know what they are looking at to hire a professional who does. "There are people out there building clones that are 100 percent perfect dead-on correct looking, but fortunately, most who build clones do not do it 100 percent correct, and there are flaws. Cowl tags are being reproduced, and so they are making fakes. You'd better be a very educated enthusiast and insist on original paperwork, because there are fake documents being made too." Wigley says there are no numbers in the VIN to tell you the car is a 396 RS SS model, for example. He also says many engines have been re-stamped and it is hard to tell-for the untrained eye. Wigley knows what to look for, but to keep the hobby honest, we are not revealing them here except to say the factory stamped engine blocks years ago with machinery that is not available today.

DESIRABILITY
In the early to mid-1970s, these cars were like most other muscle cars-used cars. Most had fallen into the hands of teens, who abused them, blew up the original engines, and they were gone forever. Some, however, did survive, and by the late 1970s, the 1969 Z/28 was really the first muscle car to take off in price. Suddenly it was chic to collect muscle cars. We remember a Forest Green 1969 Z/28 offered for sale in the corral at Spring Carlisle 1979. The asking price was an astounding $7,500, but the car was a totally original, rust-free Virginia car owned by an Air Force colonel, who had purchased the car new and never modified it. Whoever bought it and hung onto it was one smart cookie. Needless to say, first-generation Camaros are gaining value with the passage of time, and as long as GM doesn't build another Camaro, prices may continue to rise. Consider the new GTO. When Pontiac introduced the car last year, prices of original GTOs from the Sixties and Seventies went to the moon; they are among the fastest appreciating muscle cars today. The difference with older Camaros is that nearly everything taken for granted today was optional, and those are the cars that will surely continue to appreciate. With interest rates what they are and money market accounts a total joke, investing in one of these cars is not a bad idea.

 

source:

Feature Article from Hemmings Motor News

by George Mattar

http://www.stevescamaroparts.com

Steves Camaro Parts - 1969 CAMARO DASH PAD W/ OUT A/C (BLACK ONLY)

 

(69 OEM Style Molded Dash Pad without A/C

Correct grain patternand stitching. Urethane and dense foam construction over sculpted thermo-plastic spines.

One peice contour formed steel reinforcement.

Pad covers exposed VIN# plate rivets perfectly.

Far superior fit to any other reproduction dash pad on the market. Factory fit to instrument and metal dash panels.

Five years of development went into making this OEM Style molded dash pad.

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