Friday, July 29, 2011

Steve's Camaro Parts - Transmission Identification

There are many of us out there who have trouble identifying transmissions when we are running through the wrecking or scrap yard. We have looked over numerous reference books to bring some understanding to this important and troublesome question. The transmission pans are the best way to discern the difference between the many varieties of transmissions. This is only a BASIC generalization and there are other smaller differences between the years of the transmission production.
Manual Transmissions can also be generally identified, simply by looking at their profile.The main housing profile tells you what family it is part of.


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Steve's Camaro Parts - Small Block to a Big Block Engine Swap



There is nothing like opening the hood of a nice Camaro and seeing those fat valve covers of a big block. There are many advantages to making the switch from small block to big block power like the monster torque available under your right foot and that unmistakable rumble

Back in the Day there was no substitute for cubic inches in any kind of car, in fact the saying went "Theres no replacement for displacement."The only thing that kept you from owning a big-block was, much as today, the wallet-bending dollar. Much of the car-crazy public had to settle for a small block (307, 327, or 350) . Today, many of those who dreamed of a 396, 427, or the awe-inspiring 454 are taking that giant leap by doing what man has done for decades - the engine swap!
The small block to big block swap in any Chevy is relatively easy, provided you have all the necessary tools and parts & some Brains!. When performing this swap in the Camaro,STEVES CAMAROS has just what the doctor ordered. Tool-wise you'll need access to an engine hoist, an engine stand, jack stands, floor jack, 1 or 2 sets of sockets and wrenches, and maybe a few other common mechanic's tools.

Parts needed will include 2 major items that are critical to this operation: the motor mounts and the engine frame mounts.

The engine frame mounts are particular to the big block engine and also differ between the 67/68 style and the 69 style. The big block-style mounts pull the engine forward away from the firewall and also tilt the engine towards the passenger side (RH side) of the car to make up for the large amount of torque produced by the larger cube engines. Many people have tried to drop in a big block using small block mounts only to discover "no room" between the back of the block and the firewall and the side of the block and the heater core cover - not to mention only 1/4 to 1/2 normal throttle response. Correct frame mounts cure this problem. The mounts are available from STEVES CAMAROS (sold as pairs) under Part Numbers #110560(1967-68), #110570(1969). These mounts can be used with either original GM or reproduction motor mounts.

If your not going HEATER DELETE and you want to keep your heater you'll also need a new heater core and Big Block Heater cover. On original factory big-block cars without A/C, Chevrolet put the heater hose outlet very close to the passenger side fender - versus right next to the engine block like the small block cars. So to KEEP the heater you need both the big-block heater core (Part # 150120 for 67-68 non air and Part#150150 for 69 non/air) and the big block heater box (Part # 150010)for 67-69 Camaros, and are available from us.

When utilizing power steering on your Camaro with a big block, you will need the correct power steering pump brackets and pulleys. Once a hard part to find, STEVE'S now makes it easy! On 67-68 cars, order pump cradle bracket #110650 and adjuster brace #110660. For '69's, use kit #110710 and your problems are solved. 1969 cars used a big block-only power steering pump, while 67-68's with V8 all used the same pump. Get pulley #111680 and you'll have that end covered, too.


An often asked question on this swap is: "Why does my engine sit offset 1 inch to the side?" This problem only seems to arise when the small block frame mounts are used.



To ensure proper alignment of the transmission, unbolt the cross member until after the engine is in place. In some instances, new alignment holes may have to be drilled, but again, not until after the engine is in.
You should also replace your front springs with a stiffer set for the Big Block to ensure proper steering and load handling (Part #251110)and don't forget your new radiator or at the very least the B.B. Fan Shroud (Part #070380 for 67-68 and Part #070390 for 69)

The last two items involved with this swap are the exhaust system and accelerator linkage. These will depend on the set-up you chose (I.E.: Headers or manifolds; Mechanical or cable linkage) just remember for your piece of mind, there are no headers for a big block camaro 1967-1969 that will clear the power steering box with out modification.

Aside from minor adjustments and owner-chosen accessories, like radiators, hoses, fan shrouds, Just use your smarts, that pretty much finishes the swap. Remember that almost everything is available from STEVES CAMAROS.


Also If your car is a manual car(stick shift) you will need to change the Z-bar (part# 260030) and lower push rod (part# 260730) you should be able to reuse your old return spring just leave off the extension!
GOOD LUCK

Tags:  camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Steve's Camaro Parts - Basic Brakes

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Brake Basics

Basic to the operation of any automotive brake system are two well-known principles of physics. They are:

* A liquid in a closed container transmits applied pressure equally in all directions
* Energy cannot be created or destroyed. It can, however, be converted into other forms of energy.

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If the applications of these two principles to automotive brake systems are not immediately obvious, do not be concerned. The rest of this section deals with these principles.

To see how the first principle, hydraulics, relates to brakes, consider how the hydraulic brake system works. The driver presses the brake pedal. This pressure is applied to a non-compressible fluid in the system, the "brake fluid", and the fluid transmits the pressure to the wheel circuits.

The fact that the master cylinder applies pressure equally to each wheel channel, is what allows properly adjusted brakes to stop the car evenly.

Another important term to remember is "non-compressible." This means that the fluid pressure from the brake pedal is transmitted through the system as a solid form. Air can be compressed, but a liquid is virtually non-compressible in an automotive application. Air in the system results in a soft pedal and possibly a brake failure.
Another important point to note about brake fluid is that although all brake fluids are non-compressible, they are not all alike. If you look on the label, you will notice that each container of brake fluid has a DOT (Department of Transportation) designation-DOT 3, 4, or 5. Each fluid has its own characteristics.

The difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4 is their boiling point. Both of these are polyglycol based; however, DOT 3, the type specified in most American and Japanese vehicles, has a minimum dry boiling point of 401 degrees Fahrenheit. DOT 4, the type specified for most European cars, has a dry boiling point of 446 degrees. (Dry boiling point means free of water. Water lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid and may affect performance.)

Because glycol-based brake fluids do absorb moisture (hygroscopic), corroding brake parts over time, and damaging painted surfaces, many car enthusiasts have converted their vehicles to DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. It has a boiling point of more than 500 degrees Fahrenheit, does not damage the vehicle's paint and, because it does not absorb water, it will not corrode the brake system components. This means that-all other things being equal, the use of DOT 5 brake fluid will mean a longer life for the cylinders and the hydraulic brake system. That does not mean, however, that DOT 5 brake fluid should be put into every car. DOT 5 (silicone) fluid should never be used on a vehicle equipped with an ABS brake system.

Few manufacturers equip their vehicles with silicone brake fluid and, since silicone brake fluid and glycol-based DOT 3, 4-brake fluid do not mix, the only way to convert to silicone is to completely purge the polyglycol brake fluid from the system by doing a complete brake system overhaul.

The final point to remember about brake fluid is that it does not last forever. Over time, the brake fluid accumulates sediment and moisture. This affects the brake fluid's performance and harms the other components of the hydraulic system.

Car care experts recommend that all brake systems be flushed every two years. This involves purging all of the old brake fluid out of the system and replacing it with new fluid. Although flushing the system is not a complicated operation, you should keep in mind that petroleum products should be kept out of the brake system. If petroleum-based products are introduced into the hydraulic brake system, the rubber seals will swell, creating a problem that can only be solved by a complete overhaul including replacement of all rubber components.



Bleeding the System

After a brake job, air and old fluid must be removed. This is called "bleeding the system". It can be done manually by two people or by one person with a pressure or vacuum bleeder. The air is bled from the system through bleeder screws, located on the uppermost part of the master cylinder (if present), calipers, and wheel cylinders. If a bleeder screw is broken off, it must be repaired or air will remain in the system. Air retained in the system can result in a "soft or spongy pedal" or in a complete loss of pedal.

Since brake fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, it is important to keep the cap on the brake fluid and the cover on the master cylinder. Once moisture enters the hydraulic system, either during repair or because of condensation, it can eventually rust and pit the bore and finish on the cylinder, resulting in frozen or leaking wheel cylinders and calipers.

Every DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake system should be flushed periodically, at least every two years, for best hydraulic system operation.
There are basically three types of hydraulic brake systems in automobiles. Prior to 1967, a single piston master cylinder was used to provide hydraulic brake system pressure to all four wheels simultaneously. This type of system was effective but offered no provision for braking in the event of a failure in any part of the system.


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A dual system, or front/rear split, utilizes a dual piston master cylinder that separates, or makes independent of each other, the front and rear hydraulic portion of the system.


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A Dual Diagonal System, like the dual system, uses a dual-piston master cylinder and two independent braking systems. The dual diagonal system, however, links the right front and left rear
wheels on one part of the system and the left front and right rear are on the other.


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In many respects, a brake system is like an energy conversion machine. It takes one type of energy, motion, and converts it into another, heat. That heat is dissipated into the atmosphere. This heat is generated by friction.

Friction can be defined as the resistance to motion between two surfaces touching each other. In a brake system, the two surfaces in drum brakes are brake shoes and linings, and brake drums. In disc brakes, the two surfaces are the brake pads and rotors. It is this resistance to motion that actually stops the vehicle.

It is important to understand how friction works in a brake system-- what creates it and what does it do. Let's take a look at different parts of this stopping formula:

Pressure + Friction Material + Contact Area = Heat

Pressure: The brake system is designed to press the friction material against the braking surface (rotor or drum) and stop the vehicle. The amount of hydraulic pressure in the system is determined by the amount of force used to step on the brake pedal, the bore size of the master cylinder, and the size of the brake line.

In today's brake systems, pressure is converted into two types of mechanical actions: self-energizing and non-energizing.

A brake is called self-energizing if it uses the rotational force of the wheel to help stop the automobile. On this type of brake, the primary shoe contacts the drum, and the force travels through the adjuster link on the bottom to the secondary shoe. The secondary shoe wedges against the drum, stopped by an anchor pin and hydraulic pressure. On a self-energizing brake, the secondary shoe does approximately 70% of the braking. It has a longer lining than the primary shoe.

This type of brake is found on most drum-brake systems.


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The non-energizing brake does not use the rotational force of the wheels to help stop the car. With disc brakes, one or more pistons in the caliper press the pads against the rotor, braking the car. On non-energizing drum brakes, a fixed anchor between the brake shoes prevents the rotational force from the leading shoe from transmitting to the trailing shoe. Seventy-percent of the braking action on this type of brake comes from the leading shoe.


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Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar
Copyright 2011 2008-2011. Steve's Camaros.

Steve's Camaro Parts - RallySport Hose Routing Diagrams

RallySport Hose Routing Diagrams


This is a Basic Hose routing Diagram that can be used on a 1969 Camaro also
Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar
 

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Steve's Camaro Parts - Underhood Details


Underhood Details
Have you seen some really good looking cars,with shiny new paint and interiors, at shows and cruise ins. But why is the hood closed? pop the hood, you instantly see why. The engine and underhood compartment look every bit of 20-30 years old. Dirt and grease, rust, faded and flaking paint. Sound familiar? Want to do something about it? Youll have to invest in some time and work, but the results will be worth it. Youll no longer have to keep the hood closed, as a matter of fact, youll proudly have that hood up, for all to see. Lets get started.
The first order of business is to get the engine and engine compartment as clean and as free of dirt and grease as possible. A good product to use for this is some purple stuff called SuperClean, by Castrol.This product, plus a high pressure washer will really help get it clean. Now youre ready to pull the engine to get the best results. It really is easier to do this job right if you pull the engine, but satisfactory results can be had if you take off all the accessories and leave it in
Here are the basic colors in the compartment

* frame and upper/lower control arms and upper shafts-semigloss black
* front coil springs-gloss black or natural(better detail contrast)
* firewall, inner fenders, radiator support-semigloss black
* radiator and fan-gloss black
* fan clutch-natural aluminum
* radiator shroud-natural black plastic or gloss black
* steering box-natural cast iron gray
* steering linkage-natural steel
* front sway bar-natural cast iron gray
* heater or AC housing-semigloss black
* hood hinges, latch, catch and springs- gray phosphate plated
* brackets and steel pulleys-semi gloss or gloss black(gloss gives more detail contrast)
* cast iron pulleys- natural cast iron
* master cylinder- natural cast iron(some use gloss black)
* brake booster-gold cadmium plated(master cylinder lid also)
* windshield wiper motor-gloss black
* alternator- natural aluminum
* power steering pump-gloss black
* AC compressor-semigloss black
* steering column shaft-natural steel
* horns- gloss black
* coil- gloss black
* voltage regulator-gloss black
* distributor- natural aluminum with gloss black cap
* fuel and brake lines-natural steel
UNDERCARRIAGE DETAILS
* transmission-natural aluminum
* bellhousing-natural aluminum
* transmission support- semigloss black
* driveshaft- natural steel
* rear axle-semigloss black
* rear swaybar-semigloss black
* rear coil springs-gloss black
* rear control arms-semigloss black
* gas tank-natural steel(shiny)
* gas tank straps-gloss black
* parking brake cables-natural steel
THATS IT!!!
you should be looking pretty good.

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar


Friday, July 15, 2011

Steve's Camaro Parts - My First Blog


Hello, my name is Steve and I have owned and operated Steve's Camaro Parts for the last 29 years. It is not often you can make a living doing something you have a passion for. It has been great to provide a service for these wonderful Camaros from 1967, 1968 and 1969.

Were the Biggest Little Camaro Parts retailer in the USA! with over 4000+ different parts in stock and multiples of each part!! that's over 20,000+ parts HERE! If were out, its on its way. If its new, we are trying to get it.

The best in the Camaro Industries since 1976

 We have 2 stories of Camaro parts! All in and ready to go, this is why we can ship any place in the USA faster than most shops and if you're order is mostly sheet metal we save YOU money by drop shipping from our Atlanta or Los Angeles distributors on the truck fee!! Right to your house!!

Let me know what Camaro is your favorite?

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar