Steve's Camaro Parts

Steve's Camaro Parts

Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Steves Camaro Parts - NEW PART NEWS-FLASH! 1969 Camaro OEM Style Molded Dash Pad Without A/C.

69 camaro dash pad without A.C.

69 OEM Style Molded Dash Pad Without A/C.
Correct grain pattern and stitching.Urethane and dense foam construction over sculpted thermo-plastic spines.one piece contour formed steel reinforcement.
Pad covers exposed VIN# plate rivets perfectly.
Far superior fit to any other reproduction dash pad on the market.Factoty fit to instrument and metal dash panels.
five years of development went into making this OEM style molded dash pad. That's nice!

http://www.stevescamaroparts.com

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar 

Friday, July 27, 2012

Steves Camaro Parts San Bruno - Drum to Disc Swap

Drum to Disc Swap

In this segment, the front brakes are converted from a drum to a disc-braking system. The Camaro in our restoration project came with 4-wheel drum brakes. One valuable upgrade is a front disc-brake conversion. Disc brakes were, in fact, available as an option on the Camaro in the late sixties. It was option "J-52" on the dealer order form, and cost at the time was $79. Most buyers at the time, however, opted not to order the dealer option.
The disc-brake upgrade components come in a kit (figure A) that includes the spindle, dust-shield, brake-rotor, caliper-bracket, caliper and installation hardware. Some of the components are anodized and plated to protect against corrosion.

Following is a summary of the major steps in the front-brake conversion

camaro disc brake set up

FIG. A


The first step in the conversion is disassembly of the existing drum brake (figure B). Begin by disconnecting and removing the existing brake lines.
camaro drum brake removal

FIG. B



With the brake lines removed, remove the dust-cap and
inspect the wheel-bearing nut and cotter pin (figure C). Bend back the tabs on the cotter pin so that it can be removed and the wheel-bearing nut removed


1968 camaro drum brake removal
fig c


With the nut off, the drum can be removed (figure D).

1968 camaro drum brake pad
fig d
Next, remove the cotter pin from the outer tie-rod, then remove tie-rod nut using a wrench (figure E). It may help to tap the outer portion of the steering arm, using a mallet, to loosen and dislodge the outer tie-rod end.
dcr111_1fe_e.jpg
fig e



With the tie-rod removed, prior to removing the brake drum, spray down drum with a spray lubricant (figure F) to wash away any residues and asbestos particles. Use a pan to catch the run-off.

dcr111_1ff_e.jpg
fig f

The next step is to remove the lower ball-joint. Remove the cotter pin, then use a wrench to remove the lower ball-joint nut (figure G).

dcr111_1fg_d.jpg
fig g



Repeat the process with the upper ball-joint.

With the nuts removed, strike the steering knuckle with a sharp blow from a mallet (figure H) to loosen and dislodge the upper and lower ball-joints loose from their seats, allowing them to be separated.

dcr111_1fh_d.jpg
fig h

With the joints separated, the brake assembly can be lifted off the ball-joint (figure I).

dcr111_1fi_d.jpg
fig I

With the old brake assembly out of the way, installation of the new disc-brake system can begin. The first component installed is the steering spindle. It is fastened to the lower and upper ball-joints using castellated nuts (figure J). Before tightening the nuts down fully with a wrench, turn the spindle to ensure that it is seated properly on the taper of the ball joint, and that it doesn't bind.

dcr111_1fj_d.jpg
fig j

After checking for proper mobility, tighten down the nuts securely and install the cotter pins.

With the spindle installed and operating properly, the dust-shield for the disc brakes and the caliper mounting bracket (figure K) can be installed.


dcr111_1fk_d.jpg
fig k





* Tip: A little thread-lock on the bolts is a good idea for securing this part, as well as other places in the brake system where bolt fasteners are used.


Once you've started the bolts for the dust-shield, but before tightening them down all the way, install the steering arm at the back of the shield (figure L ). The arm attaches to the two lower bolts below the spindle.


dcr111_1fl_d.jpg
fig L




Once the steering-arm assembly has
been properly installed, tighten down the upper mounting bolt that secures the dust shield (figure M). The mounting bolts are fitted with lock tabs for extra stability.

dcr111_1fm_d.jpg
fig m

With the dust-shield and steering arm secured, install the outer tie-rod on the steering-knuckle arm and tighten down the castellated nut (figure N).

dcr111_1fn_d.jpg
fig n

Line up the notch in the castellated nut with the hole in the tie-rod, and install the cotter pin (figure O).

dcr111_1fo_d.jpg
fig o

Next, tighten down the lower bolts that secure the steering arm at the bottom portion of the spindle (figure P). These are secured with lock-nuts rather than cotter pins. The locking compound is on the inside of the nut, and once installed, the nuts are permanent.


dcr111_1fp_d.jpg
fig p

With the wheel bearings packed and installed on the new rotor, the next major step is to position and install the rotor. Before doing that, however, place a light coating of wheel-bearing grease on the spindle where the wheel bearing will ride (figure Q). This will form a protective coating that will take care of the inside of the wheel bearing.

dcr111_1fq_d.jpg
fig q

With the spindle coated with the grease, the rotor can now be installed (figure R). As the rotor is seated on the spindle, spin, tighten and adjust it continuously it to insure that it seats properly.

dcr111_1fr_d.jpg
fig R

With the assembly operating smoothly, add the center washer and nut, and adjust the wheel bearing (figure S). There should be between 3/1000 and 6/1000 of play in the bearing for proper turning.

dcr111_1fs_d.jpg
fig s

With the rotor adjusted properly, install the cotter pin and the dust cap (figure T). The dust cap is critical for keeping contaminants out of the wheel bearing and forming a weather-proof seal. Tap it with a mallet to get it started, then use the cap-installer to seat it securely.

dcr111_1ft_d.jpg
fig t

The final phase in the front-brake conversion is the installation of the brake caliper (figure U), which is secured with an upper and lower pin using a socket wrench.


dcr111_1fu_d.jpg
fig u



With the caliper installed, the brake lines can be connected to the frame-mounted bracket (figure V) and installing the lock clip.


dcr111_1fv_d.jpg
fig v



This finishes the disc brake installation on one side of the vehicle. Repeat the steps on the other front brake to complete the upgrade.


The modern conversion gives superior stopping ability for the restored Camaro. Disc-brakes dissipate heat faster than drum brakes, and stop the vehicle straighter and more efficiently.
DON'T FORGET TO LOOK AT THE Master Cylinder and Brake Lines SECTION ALSO
Keep in mind that, in this brake overhaul, all of the newly installed systems -- front disc-brakes, power booster and master cylinder -- are connected and interdependent systems. They all function in a coordinated way, so the components must all be compatible. For that reason its best to shop for a complete kit and not the best price CHEAP BRAKES ARE ARE NOT WORTH YOUR LIFE!!



http://www.stevescamaroparts.com

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar 

Thursday, July 26, 2012

Steve's Camaro Parts - What our Customers Say

I love this place. Its the one stop shop for all my 68 camaro needs. Staff is friendly and always helpful. Great literature and great customer service. I highly recommend this place for all your first generation muscle car needs.

skraper D
San Francisco

I have been going to this place since the early 90's. Steve sells quality parts that are reasonably priced.

Larry M.
San Francisco

great service for the parts you need for your vintage camaro. i bought a cowl induction hood by goodmark for a deal!

I don't order from the mail order places because a) they give you cheap stuff, b) its not that much cheaper with the shipping and handling, and c) nothing can replace good ol' fashioned customer service.

Henry B
San Francisco

Steve is the man, the best in the business! He has been doing it the longest and if he doesn't have it he knows where to get it if you need it...Good guy!!

Michael M
Pacifica


www.stevescamaroparts.com

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar 

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Steves Camaro Parts 17th Annual Car Show & BBQ Saturday, August 11, 2012

http://www.stevescamaroparts.com

Tags: camaro part, camaro parts, Camaro restoration parts, 69 camaro, 1969 camaro, aftermarket camero parts, chevrolet camaro, ss, z28, rs, chevrolet, restoration, 68 camaro, chevy, 67, 69, f-body, camaro, chevy camaro, chevrolet camaro, gm, z-28, 350, ls1, z/28, pace car, camaro ss, 69 camaro, first generation, copo, fbody, yenko, 67 camaro, 68 camaro, musclecar 

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Steves Camaro Parts - Jekyll-and-Hyde 1968 Chevy Camaro will make you look more than twice

Like a good neighbor with some weird ideas...
This photo has not been manipulated. That's an actual 1968 Chevrolet Camaro turned into a Jekyll-and-Hyde car from its split badges on its front grille to the carpet in its trunk. It's the result of an exacting, months-long rebuild that created a car unlike any other. The crazy minds who created it? Four guys from State Farm insurance.

If you've ever tried to buy car insurance for a classic ride, you know it's a complicated process, and one fraught with potholes. The universe of classic cars runs from rusted rat rods not worth their value in scrap to multimillion-dollar machinery; some owners want to drive them as much as possible, others won't roll them any further than the garage door. In most cases, any insurance on a classic vehicle begins with a guess about its value, and one owner's chromed wheels and nitrous-injection system is another's crime against history.
About four years ago, State Farm insurance agents noted a growing demand for such policies. The nation's largest insurer runs a Vehicle Research Facility in Bloomington, Ill., that studies auto repair techniques, and took it upon itself to explain the nuances of classic cars to its agents. Tom Hollenstain, the research administrator for the facility, said while the group mulled building a couple of vehicles to show the difference between restored and modified, the shop manager had the brainstorm to combine everything into one vehicle, split down the middle.
The build began with the discovery of a 1968 Camaro among the thousands of totaled vehicles that pass through State Farm's hands every year. "It was one of those cars that looked good from far, but was far from good," said Hollenstain, after suffering an engine fire that blew out the windshield and melted the dash.
State Farm's Two-Sided 1968 …
Working around other projects off and on for nearly 3 1/2 years, the shop slowly built its double-sided muscle car. The driver's side of the Camaro received a show-quality restoration back to factory original state -- from the seat covers to the frame rails. The passenger's side was given the kind of rebuild that often draws inspiration from whatever twelve pack's on sale at the corner liquor store -- with sloppy body filler, odd-sized wheels and massive air brakes. Even the engine gets a split treatment; one side has an aluminum head, the other cast-iron as GM intended.

State Farm's Two-Sided 1968 …
In the middle, State Farm's builders carefully melded the hood, grille and paint of the original with that from a Camaro SS, and kept the line razor-sharp through the vehicle. Outside of the upholstery work, "the car was entirely built by the four staffers here," says Hollenstain.

State Farm's Two-Sided 1968 …
The half-and-half Camaro will run and move, but not very well, thanks to mismatched brakes; State Farm plans to keep using it as a training tool and advertisement for its classic car policies at auto shows nationwide -- and a quiet testament to four car enthusiasts who made a statement about the world of classic cars on company time.

State Farm's Two-Sided 1968 …

source: By Justin Hyde | Motoramic

www.stevescamaroparts.com

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